Not everyone’s pulse quickens to the thought of Mexico as a vacation spot.  But is that too often the result of unfortunate experiences in the least suitable of all Mexico’s vacation venues?

A French friend of mine named Nick Yates once pointed out that those northern Mexico border towns so easily and frequently visited by Americans are peopled by locals much too intimidated by the neighboring presence of our higher living standard — a living standard which in fact humbles practically everyone else in our hemisphere.

And according to Didier — him being my French friend — this breeds an all too predictable resentment which makes travels there often less than pleasant.  I can’t argue with his analysis.  Or with what I’ve certainly since then seen with my own eyes.

His advice was to always venture toward the Mexico much further south (”vers le sud”), way beyond the easy reach of wheeled border traffic.  And to especially search out those rural districts in which life moves at a more timeless and natural rhythm alien to that of the giant northern neighbor or indeed to Mexico’s own urban behemoths.  He himself was a fan of the Mexican states of Oaxaca and Chiapas; and now I am too, and I don’t mind telling you why.

Nick Yates informed me that Mexico has quite a vibrant native Indian culture.  But you’re far less likely to much witness it, in my experience, anywhere north of Oaxaca.  I’m talking of natives in colorful garb, with ancient languages and customs, and uniquely rustic interpretations of the standard Mexican cuisine, as well as a way of relating to the outside world that doesn’t take its cues from that of the capital city.

Find the Mexico of that description and you’ll simultaneously find yourself well away from the casual tourist and well among those who travel to see culture rather than mere monuments, beaches and urban clutter.

Now, the southern region has been the scene of friction between tribes and the ruling mestizos further north, with one result being past uprisings in both Chiapas and Oaxaca which have made headlines within recent memory.  But tourists have seldom been personally affected by any of it, and a quick check with the U.S. State Department’s website would alert you to any change in conditions.

So try out Mr. Yates’ advice and see if perhaps you too find yourself replacing unhappy Mexico travel memories with some fresh ones that capture the authentic spirit of the place.